Monday, July 26, 2010

Nursing Cover Tutorial


A stylish and practical nursing cover. The dimensions are slightly larger than most nursing covers, which gives added coverage and less chance of someone getting an uninvited sneak peek!

You will need:
1.25 yd fabric
16” boning (in fabric casing)
2 D-rings (1.25”-1.5”)

Fabric pieces to cut:
one rectangle 28”x40” for main body
· one strip 4.25”x10” for neck strap
· one strip 4.25”x26” for neck strap

1. First we will complete the neck straps… Take 4.25”x10” strip of fabric and fold in half lengthwise right sides together. Stitch ¼” from edge along raw edges, forming a tube. Repeat with longer strip, but sew a curve towards the inner fold when you are reaching the last few inches of the strip. Trim seam allowance around curve close to the stitching line.

2. Turn each piece right side out and press flat with the seam going down the center of the strap. Topstitch ¼” from each edge on both straps.

3. Place shorter strap through D-rings, matching up raw edges. Stitch as close to the D-rings as possible, encasing them between the two layers of the strap.

4. On to the main body of the nursing cover… With your main body rectangle of fabric, fold and press upper edge (if your fabric has a definite pattern, ensure you know which side should be at the top!) ½” toward wrong side of fabric. This should be your 40” long edge. Fold and press again ½”.

5. Open up the folded edge and center the boning along the raw edge (I used black boning for demonstration purposes), with the boning curving away from you (sounds more confusing that it is… now’s a good time to take a look at the picture below). There should be 12” of the pressed edge on either side of the boning. Pin boning in place.

6. Stitch along upper edge of boning casing (depending on your boning, your stitching may need to be nearer the top edge). Stitch at either end of boning casing, ensuring that boning is completely covered by the casing. If needed, first trim 1/8” off of each boning end (plastic only, not the casing) to allow casing to completely cover the boning. This will assure OCD people like me that the boning will not move or poke through the casing or your fabric.

7. Allow the upper edge of fabric to fold over again the way it was pressed. With the right sides facing toward you, take each neck strap and tuck under folded edge, centering each strap at the edge of each end of boning. Pin in place. Stitch along lower edge of fold.

8. Press neck straps upward, away from the main body. Stitch along upper edge of main body, backstitching at edges of straps, securing neck straps in their final and upward position.

9. Fold and press lower edge of nursing cover ½”, fold another ½” and press again as was done with the upper edge. Stitch close to folded edge. Repeat with raw side edges.

Note: If you would like to add an interior pocket that can also be used as a burp cloth, simply cut a right-angle triangle piece of terry towel or chenille the size you would like your pocket to be, allowing enough fabric for a hem on the top edge. Hem the top edge, sandwich the raw edges of the triangle between one lower side and the bottom pressed edges before they have been stitched, and stitch the pocket right into place while you sew the bottom and side edge. I have personally never needed a pocket because it seems I always have a big diaper bag with me anyway and a separate burp cloth, but it's a simple step to add if you think you might like one!

10. Thread the long strap through the front of the D-rings and back out again through one on the underside.

11. You are done, great job!

To purchase full sewing kit including fabric, rings, boning and instructions click the picture link below.

Quilting Tips- Continous Bias

Continuous Bias:

Continuous Bias Binding A bias binding is used to edge quilts with scalloped edges or rounded corners. Because you are working with the cross grain of the fabric, it will curve smoothly around rounded quilt edges. Any woven fabrics will do. Stripes and plaids give a unique and pleasing effect when cut on the bias.

Step 1: Straighten the width of your fabric by tearing off one end. This will give you a true straight grain to work with.

Step 2: To get the true bias, hold the straightened end. Bring the upper right corner down to the lower edge. This fold is the true bias. Press this fold so you have nice crease to follow. open up fabric and cut on this creased line.

Step 3: Take this triangle of fabric and move it to the opposite edge of your fabric. Your fabric should look like a parallelogram. Stitch right sides together. Press.

Step 4: With a ruler and pencil, mark a line parallel to the bias, the width you would like your bias to be. This width will depend on your preference for binding. I cut my binding wide enough that I can fold it in half, sew it to the front of my quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance. I then turn the folded edge of the binding over to the back and stitch by hand. For a finished binding that is approximately 3/8" wide, I cut my strips 2 1/2 inches wide. Again this width depends on the finished look you like the best. if you desire a wider edge, cut your strips wider, and take a 1/2' seam allowance.

Step 5: Make the fabric into a tube by bringing the marked edge of end 'A 'to edge 'B.' Move corner 'A' along the edge until the marked line and corner' B' are together. Sew these lengthwise edges together. Your tube will lookout of shape.

Step 6: Lay tube flat and continue to mark the line you started in step 4.. This works very well with a quilters gridded ruler.

Step 7: Carefully cut along your line. This strip is your bias. Finish your binding by pressing it in half with right sides out.