Simply Colorful!

 

Simply Colorful (by V and Co for Moda) has hit the shelves!  We have charm packs and jelly rolls…

 

as well as the lovely reds and pinks in yardage.

And here’s some inspiration for you!  This quilt is a free tutorial over on the Moda Bake Shop blog.  It’s called Sunset Ridge and it uses the junior jelly rolls  that we have in the shop.  So cute!

You can find the free tutorial for this quilt here. 

Hi-De-Ho

Hi-De-Ho is a new line from Moda and we have both Jelly Rolls and Charm Packs available!

I love the fun and bright summery colors in this line! 

And check out this fun quilt designed by Brenna Goode for the Moda Bakeshop.  The quilt takes 1 jelly roll and some background fabric.  Check out the free quilt pattern here.

Curves Made Easy! Quick Curve Ruler Tutorial

Have you heard of the Quick Curve Ruler?  It’s a pretty slick tool that makes cutting, piecing and sewing with curves a breeze!  We carry the Quick Curve Ruler here at The Fabric Mill, and so I thought I’d do a quick walk through to show you just how easy using this ruler is!

This table runner pattern (called Urban Runner) is free and included with the ruler – it’s actually the back and the inside of the ruler’s label.  There are also other quilt patterns available that use the ruler (we carry several!).  Oh- and for a limited time, we have kits for this runner too!

Let’s get started!  First of all, we need to cut the curves.   The instructions for this runner do a great job of explaining these steps, including diagrams but I’m a visual learner and step by step photographs are helpful. 

You’ll need long, 8.5” wide strips of fabric.  For the first curve, line up the top and bottom edges of the fabric with the dashed lines on the ruler.  Then move the cutting slit (where your rotary cutter fits into the ruler) all the way over to the left edge of the fabric.  Use your regular rotary cutter to slice right along that curved slit. 

Look – you did it!  Next, move the ruler over so that the top and bottom edges of fabric still line up with the dashed line on the ruler.  The curved dashed line on the left will now line up with the curve you just cut.  You’re now ready to cut the next curve -

Just like this! 

Now continue moving the ruler over and cutting curves until you get to the end of your fabric strip -

Repeat these steps for the other fabrics you’ll be using.  For this table runner kit, there are four main prints. 

That wasn’t so bad, was it?  Next we’ll cut the background (white) pieces.

These 3.5" x 8.5" background pieces can be stacked and cut two or three at a time.  Line up the top and bottom edge of the fabric along the same dashed line like we did with the main prints.  The right edge of the fabric will line up with the right edge of the ruler.  Now just cut along the curved slit.

 

Voila!  Really, once you get the hang of this, it goes pretty quickly.

Repeat until you have cut all of the background curves.

Now we are ready to sew!  At this point I highly recommend you cut two test blocks out and sew them first.  After two blocks you’ll get the feel of it and your blocks will improve.

Grab one main fabric piece and one small background piece (concave curve).  Line them up, right sides together, with 1/4” bit of the background fabric peeking out at the top.

Place fabrics under the presser foot and using a 1/4” seam…

…start sewing.  It helped me to lift the top fabric up as I sewed.  Keep the right edge of the fabrics lined up at the 1/4” seam as you sew.  Go nice and slow at first – and you’ll get the hang of it – I promise!

When you get to the end, the bottom the white fabric should peek out about 1/4” again like when you started.  We will trim these blocks down a bit when we square them up later so if they’re not perfect that’s okay!

Open up your block and pat yourself on the back because you just sewed a curve! 

We need to add the other side of the block now.  Grab the second piece of background fabric and line it up as shown below:

Sew as you did before, with a 1/4” seam, and lifting the top layer up a bit as you sew.

Repeat until you have made all 28 of these.

Press the blocks and then we will trim and square them up.

Place the ruler with the top and bottom edge of the curve lining up at about the 1/4” mark on the ruler (see red circles).  The top and bottom left edges of the curve should line up at about the 2-1/4” mark on the ruler.  Trim the top and right edge of the block.

Rotate the block so we can trim the other two edges.  This time just line up the left edge with the 4” line on the ruler, and the bottom edge with the 8” line on the ruler.  Trim off the top and right side of the block.

Repeat to trim and square all blocks – don’t they look great? 

You’re now ready to sew the blocks together -

You will need 14 of these for the runner.

This was my first time trying the Quick Curve Ruler and I’m glad I tackled this smaller project first.  I feel like I’ve got the hang of it though and I’m ready to tackle a whole quilt pattern!

If you’re needing a little more encouragement, the designers of the ruler have three online video tutorials to show you how to cut curves, sew curves, and square up blocks.  You can find the videos here.

The kits for this runner are $15.50 and available while supplies last!

Military Max

Military Max is this cute new line from Riley Blake.  We have it in cottons and flannels!

My boys fell in love with this line when they saw it! 

Need some ideas on how you can use it?  How about some new pillowcases?  Or a Lego play mat and storage bag (click here for tutorial). Or you could make one of these quilts: 

 

Both of these quilts are free tutorials on the Riley Blake Blog.  

Click the photo to be taken directly to the tutorial.

"Fall"ing for a Jelly Roll Race quilt

 Autumn is on it's way!  We're starting to see some fall colors popping up in the mountains- and here in the shop.  We have these pretty fall colored jelly rolls available - these are custom jelly rolls hand cut here in the shop from some of our very favorite fall prints!

 And we've used one of those custom jelly roll bundles to make an updated version of the Jelly Roll Race quilt!

You can see our original Jelly Roll Race display quilt here, and see the free online video tutorial on how to make a Jelly Roll Race here.  But because we did a few things different than the video tutorial, we have a 1 page pattern showing you how to make this same, gorgeous fall quilt.  When you stop by to grab the custom jelly roll, be sure to ask for the pattern that goes with it!  (pattern is free with purchase of a jelly roll)

Want to see more fun, Jelly Roll Race quilts?  We have a Pinterest board to provide inspiration!  And while you're there, be sure to follow us!

Under The Sea Baby Quilt (free tutorial)

Last week I used some of the In the Ocean fabric to make a quick baby gift for a friend of mine.  I used the Simple Gifts Baby Quilt Tutorial and whipped it up in no time!

This sweet quilt finished at 38” x 42” which is a great size for a little one.

Want to make one too?  Here’s what you’ll need:

First of all, the tutorial can be found here.

1-1/4 yard front fabric**

1-1/4 yard backing**
1/3 yard binding
batting: a piece at least 42” x 42”

**The original tutorial calls for just 1-1/8 of each fabric but for this quilt I bought 1-1/4 of both the front and the back because I needed to work around those squares.

The cheater print makes this quilt look like a cute Ocean-themed patchwork quilt!

Here are the rest of the In The Ocean prints.  I think any combination of these fabric would make a cute Simple Gift Baby Quilt!

Gift idea: snap bags!

Every year there are a couple of people on my list that are SO difficult to buy Christmas gifts for.  This year two of them are women and I’m just racking my brain trying to think of something meaningful, thoughtful, and/or useful to give.  Can you tell I’m a fairly practical gift giver?  I try to give handmade gifts when I can and so when I saw this great snap bag display that Laura made I knew this fit the bill! 

Laura used three prints from the Winter’s Lane fabric line from Moda to make this snap bag. 

Have you seen these?  They are so clever!  The top closure is made using metal tape measure pieces.  Next time you stop by the shop be sure to go and check out this bag.  It’s so fun to play with. 

These bags are easy to open and close --perfect for little fingers or also for adults who have difficulty with the pinching motion that zippers and snaps require.   

I found two fantastic (and free!) snap bag tutorials for you:

ruffled snap bag tutorial

basic snap bag tutorial

These two tutorial as well as 20 other great bag, tote and purse tutorials can be found on our pinterest board!  It’s full of great gift ideas.  Go check it out, find your favorite tutorial and then stop by the Fabric Mill and we’ll help you pick out the perfect fabrics for your project. 

Easy Hot Pad Tutorial

The other day I needed a quick gift for a friend and decided I’d make a couple of hot pads / pot holders for her.  These are a quick project and make a nice gift because you can completely customize the fabrics to fit the chef!
 

(fabric used is Serenata from Riley Blake)

Easy Hot Pad Tutorial

by

Andy Knowlton

www.abrightcorner.com

Materials Needed (for two hot pads)
1/4 yard each of two complimentary fabrics OR 2 fat quarters
1/6 yard coordinating fabric for binding
1/4 yard Insul-Bright**
two 9”x 9” pieces of thin cotton batting

**Insul-Bright is a thin batting-like material that has an insulating layer.  It is made for items such as this.  In the photo you can just barely see the thin insulating layer (where the red arrow is pointing.)  The Fabric Mill carries Insul-Bright!



Step 1:  Cut two 8.5” squares from each coordinating fabric.

Then cut (about) 9” squares of the thin cotton batting and the Insul-Bright (you’ll need two of each)

The rest of the instructions will be for just one hot pad but your supplies will be enough to make two. 

Step 2:  Layer the fabrics and the batting to create a sandwich:   fabric 1 (right side down), Insul-Bright, thin cotton batting, fabric 2 (right side up)

Pin layers together in 4 to 6 places to hold together.

Step 3:  Quilt the layers together.  You can do either some straight line quilting, or some free motion quilting.  I like the look of the straight line quilting but the fmq goes a bit quicker for me.

Once the quilting is done trim the hot pad.

Step 4:  From the binding fabric cut 1 strip that is 2.5” x width of fabric.  Fold it in half and press to make a long strip that is 1.25” wide.

(Each binding strip will bind one hot pad)

Step 5:  Place the binding strip along one side of the hot pad with the folded edge pointing toward the center of the hot pad and the raw edge of the binding strip matching up with the edge of the hot pad. 

Start sewing (1/4” seam) about 1.5” from the corner of the hot pad.  Stop when you get to 1/4” from the edge.  Backstitch.  Clip threads.

Fold the binding strip to the right so that it is perpendicular to where you were just sewing:

then fold it back on itself to the left so it lines up with the next edge of the hot pad:

Turn the hot pad 90 degrees and begin sewing the next side (1/4” seam.)  Start right at the edge and backstitch just a little as you begin:

Sew all the way down this side, stopping again 1/4” from the end and repeating the above steps for the corner.

Continue all the way around the hot pad:

After sewing the final corner, sew down the last side only about 1.5”, then backstitch.  Remove hot pad from machine, clip threads.  On that last side, you should have about 5 or 6 inches with no binding yet:

Next we need to join the two ends of the binding.  Lay the binding down and unfold it just a little so you can mark where they meet up. 

Pin in place

Carefully sew across the two binding ends to join them.

Trim extra binding off, leaving about 1/4”:

Lay binding down on edge of hot pad, finger pressing the seam you just created. 

Sew in place.

Step 6:  Beginning in the middle of one side, flip the binding over to the back so that it covers the stitching line.  Hold in place with pins or binding clips.  Sew on the other side, right in the ditch.  This will catch the folded edge of the binding on the opposite side. 

When you get to the corner, stop about 2” from the corner.  Leaving the needle and the presser foot down, fold up the corner so you can see the underside.  Fold the binding down as shown:

Then fold the other side over as shown to create the corner.  Hold in place as you sew to the corner, leave the needle down, pivot and continue sewing down the next edge of the hot pad. 

Continue sewing around until binding is sewn. 

Enjoy your hot pads!  I LOVE mine.  When they need a wash just toss them in with your dish towels.